Watches: Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde SW Côtes de Genève

By Thierry Ané on February 10, 2014

Jaquet Droz is renowned for its understated models that combine the purity of its round 43mm case and the refinement of its delicate dials like the iconic Grande Seconde with two off-centred dials that describe a figure eight.

In 2008 though, the brand dared to venture off its safe classic track and offered a sporty reworking of its iconic model. With an imposing 45mm case, a fluted bezel and hollowed horns, the new Grande Seconde SW was a perfect example of the fusion of tradition with Avant-Garde design. Despite being the first Jaquet Droz model with a steel case and a rubber strap, the Grande Seconde SW Steel retained the elegance and uncompromising style that have been the trademarks of this Manufacture.

A watch that looks as good with casual clothes as with formal attire is bound to achieve great success and, over the years, the brand used this model to experiment with materials and design: the Grande Seconde SW Ceramic and Steel introduced a black ceramic bezel while the Grande Seconde SW Titanium used a carbon fibre dial to emphasise the modernity of its titanium case. With the Grande Seconde SW Red Gold and Titanium the brand even played on the contrast between the industrial feel of the brushed titanium and the luxury appeal of highly polished red gold before giving in to the ultimate opulence with the Grande Seconde SW Red Gold: a sports watch entirely crafted in gold.

At this year’s Baselworld fair, the brand will formally introduce the Grande Seconde SW Côtes de Genève that represents a new direction in the story of Jaquet Droz’s understated sports watch. The shape of the case is of course unchanged and, for this model the brand came back to the first material it used: steel. As often with Jaquet Droz, the novelty is found on the face of the watch. Indeed, the dial of this new model is covered with anthracite grey Côtes de Genève.

The use of Geneva stripes on the dial is a big trend at Jaquet Droz for classic watches: the Grande Seconde, the Time Zones, the Grande Date, all the brand's iconic models were recently presented with this type of dial, usually in black. It is the first time this classic decoration adorns a Grande Seconde SW model. It reinforces its elegance. This superb watch is proposed on an anthracite grey alligator leather strap with tone on tone stitches (here again, a first for this collection). I usually like grey watches a lot and, according to the press pictures, this model looks absolutely stunning: the large Côtes de Genève bring an exceptional depth to this watch’s dial and the anthracite grey of both the dial and strap gives it a very pure, almost raw aspect. One small disappointment though, I would have loved to see this grey watch with a titanium case for an all-grey look.

Inside this stunning timepiece beats the 2663A-S calibre. This self-winding mechanical movement features a ruthenium treatment and an 18-carat white gold oscillating weight that can be admired through the sapphire exhibition case back.

The press release promises us several other variations of this elegant watch at Baselworld. We will thus have to wait until the 26th of March to discover them and maybe the Gande Seconde SW collection will follow in the footsteps of the Grande Seconde Quantième and offer a brown and a blue versions?

For a technical description of the timepiece and additional pictures: