Watches: Officine Panerai Pocket Watch 3 Days Oro Rosso and Oro Bianco

By Thierry Ané on February 19, 2014

Every year in January, hordes of “Paneristi” around the world bounce up and down with impatience and excitement as they wait for Officine Panerai to unveil its new creations. Every new addition to the Luminor and Radiomir lines will be extensively scrutinised to determine whether they consider them faithful to the impressive heritage of this manufacture. If so, these watches will end at the top of their wish list since, for any good “Paneristo”, nothing comes close to a beautiful Panerai timepiece.

With a dozen Panerai models in my collection, I certainly understand their enthusiasm. Nevertheless, unlike these hardcore aficionados, I have reached a point where every new model I examine looks too close to one of my watches for me to consider buying it. I surely appreciate their beauty though, and I am still extremely curious about Panerai’s new creations. Like everybody else, I was thus very anxious to discover the 2014 vintage.

Against all odds, I did not expect to find myself in front of two pieces I consider so stunning that I would love to add one of them to my collection! If you knew the kind of watches I usually fall for, you would also be particularly amazed to learn that both models are in fact pocket watches!

Surely pocket watches have a rare and precious connotation attached to them but I buy watches to wear them and not just store them in a safe only to glance at them from time to time. With their massive 50 mm cushion-shaped Radiomir case, though, the Pocket Watch 3 Days Oro Rosso and Oro Bianco look rugged enough to be carried around all day despite our hectic lives.

These imposing cases have a huge gold bow above the winding crown at 12 o’clock. This is where you can attach the massive 40 cm long watch chain that comes with each model. Designed by the manufacture this beautiful chain ended by two hooks is made of the same material as the case: white or red gold.

Both models feature the iconic sandwich-style dial inspired by vintage Panerai models form the 1930s. Two superimposed discs enfold a layer of ecru SuperLuminova. The upper disc presents Panerai’s usual hollowed baton hour markers combined with the four Arabic numerals “3”, “6”, “9”, and “12”. On the white gold model, the dial is black whereas it is brown on the red gold version, with a sun-brushed finish in both cases.

Equipped with half-hunter cases, the gold back of each model can be lifted to observe the in-house P.3001/10 calibre. This manually-wound movement with 3 days of energy indicates the time of the day with two hands and also exhibits a useful power reserve indicator on the back. It received a high-end finish with perlage, chamfered bridges and skeletonised barrels.

Last touch of refinement, Panerai delivers each pocket watch with an especially designed stand, engraved with the brand’s name, on which the watch can be hung to become a very visible table clock. Each model is limited to 50 pieces and comes in a stunning mahogany box. The red gold version costs $71,800 while the white gold model is worth $75,700.

Although my preference goes to the red gold version, both models are extremely well crafted and beautiful to look at. They would definitely enhance my collection…

For a technical description of the timepieces and additional pictures: