Flash News: H. Moser & Cie Moser Perpetual 1 Black Edition

By Thierry Ané on March 10, 2014

Just a few weeks before Baselworld, H. Moser & Cie introduces a very new take on one of its most flagship models, the Perpetual 1. For once, it is not just a new dial version but an entirely revamped model with a much more contemporary look than all previous editions. It is also a true “revolution” for the brand as it is the first time ever that this manufacture uses a non-precious metal (all prior models have indeed been crafted in either gold or platinum).

The brand is set to unveil an entirely new collection at the Swiss fair and, if this new piece is any indication of the direction it moves towards, we should see radically different models able to catch the eye of a much younger or at least less “traditional” clientele.

The 100 pieces of the new Perpetual 1 Black Edition are made of titanium with a black DLC coating. The all-black look of the watch is enhanced by the matte black alligator strap secured by a black DLC titanium pin buckle as well as the black dial. The hour markers, hands and circle around the seconds counter, though, are in rose gold. They contrast nicely with the black and make the watch extremely legible and elegant.

The case is still the same round 40.80 mm x 11.10 mm as the previous iterations and this is perhaps my only criticism: with its definitely less classic look this timepiece would have looked better on a more “contemporary” case size (and by that I obviously mean larger).

The movement that ticks inside the watch is the HMC 341 calibre, one of the six entirely developed in-house by the brand. This manually-wound movement with a 7-day power reserve features one of the purest perpetual calendars on the market with a large date window, a discreet indication of the month by a small central arrow hand and the leap-year indication on the back. It also indicates the power reserve level at 9 o’clock and the seconds in a small counter at 6 o’clock. For this Perpetual 1 Black Edition, it has been blackened to extend the “black theme”.

I really look forward to seeing this model hands-on to determine how I really feel about it. I will come back on the brand’s new introductions during the fair.

For a technical description of the timepiece and additional pictures: