Watches: Corum Admiral's Cup AC-One 45 Skeleton (+live pics)
By Thierry Ané on May 8, 2014
With its Baselworld introductions, Corum showed once again how versatile the iconic Admiral's Cup model can be with beautiful interpretations of its revamped AC-One 45 ranging from extremely sporty to smart and perfect for an evening out.
Readers of Watch Agora have already been able to admire the colourful Admiral's Cup AC-One 45 TidesWatches: Corum Admiral's Cup AC-One 45 Tides (+live pics) from all angles thanks to our live pictures from Basel. As far as sport’s watches go, this intriguing model with its unusual blue colour, refined split pomegranate motif on the dial, and original nautical complications, ranks high on our wish list.
But this immediately recognisable case with its twelve-sided bezel is also at ease in more formal attires and the brand with the key logo reasserted it this year with the AC-One 45 Skeleton model. What could indeed be more classical than a watch with a skeletonised face? Corum, though, executed this necessary step of fine watchmaking with clever design tricks and very contemporary touches to create an extremely appealing watch that truly adds something new to this well-established genre.
The brand first selected grade 5 titanium for the 45 mm case of this model, a material that remains rarely associated with skeleton watches (except by Hublot who truly experiments every possible associations of materials, colours, complications…). Here, the case incorporates black PVD titanium inserts for a very modern look and also alternates nicely satin-brushed surfaces with gently polished ones to create the right amount of contrasts and draw our attention to its complex modular construction.
Then, there is the face of the watch that does not look quite like your usual skeletonised model. It seems obvious that the raison d’être of such watches is to display the movement in all its glory, hiding nothing of its intricate horological workings. But what do you do when the size of the movement does not match the dimension of the case?
The in-house self-winding CO 082 calibre that animates this watch measures 25.94 mm, significantly less than the 45 mm offered by this case. Does it mean you are condemned to use it for minuscule watches if you ever decide to put it on display by taking the dial off? No of course! This is actually where the ingenuity of Corum’s designers comes into play and where the watch sets itself apart from the competition from an aesthetic standpoint.
The design team decided to fill the gap between the movement and the case by the use of an oversized openwork date ring that extends well beyond the limits of the movement to reach the flange. Not only does it provide a very original and highly legible vertical large date at 6 o’clock, but it adds to the impression of skeletonisation. It also remarkably increases the sense of depth already enhanced by the hour markers that extend so much from the anthracite flange with the legendary nautical pennants that they seem to levitate above the movement. In the centre, one can admire the openwork architecture of the movement leaving all gear trains in plain view with their resolutely contemporary finish.
Mounted on a black alligator strap, this beautiful AC-One 45 Skeleton features a triple folding buckle in titanium and boasts and impressive water resistance to a depth of 300 meters. It is without a doubt another great offer from Corum this year.