Watches: IWC Ingenieur Dual Time Steel (+live pics and video)
By Thierry Ané on May 20, 2014
Every year like clockwork, IWC updates one of its watch families and the SIHH 2014 was all about the Aquatimer diver’s models. Now that the media focus on this line’s complete overhaul has come to an end, it is time for the brand to unveil the additional novelties that will bring some fresh air to the other watch collections.
With two new Ingenieur Dual Time models in stainless steel, IWC extends a family that was the centre of last year’s revamping in direct connection with the brand’s partnership with the Mercedes AMG Petronas Formula One Team.
The 5-hole bezel and the presence of an integrated bracelet have been important design cues of the Ingenieur collection since the very first Ingenieur SL designed by Gerald Genta and the brand retained these iconic design traits on all new models. However, most timepieces presented last year showcased quite large (45-46 mm) cases in perfect line with the motor racing theme adopted for this watch family. Only the Ingenieur Automatic stood out with its very moderate 40 mm frame.
The Ingenieur Dual Time models released this month are faithful to the new aesthetic codes of the Ingenieur collection but feature a somewhat intermediary 43 mm stainless steel case paired with the redesigned stainless steel bracelet that was already adorning several models last year.
Inside the new watches beats the self-winding IW35720 calibre presented in a 45 mm titanium model in 2013. In addition to the time and date it offers a second time zone indication by a central arrow-tipped hand on a 24-hour scale. An important feature of this reliable movement is the possibility of adjusting the local time backward or forward in one-hour increments, even behind the International Date Line. Two versions are available: a model with a white dial and a rendition showcasing a black dial.
In order to differentiate between day and night, the 24-hour ring on the flange uses contrasting colours: darker for the night (i.e., from 6pm to 6am) and lighter for the day (6am to 6pm). The model with a white dial is definitely the sportier alternative with light-grey and navy blue 24-hour track for the second time zone as well as navy blue SuperLuminova for the hour markers. The version featuring a black dial is resolutely more multi-purpose: it exhibits a discreet black and grey dual time ring and classic white SuperLuminova markers, making it easy to wear in formal or more laid-back occasions.
Although I would go for the sportier alternative, both watches look definitely great on the wrist with enough presence to be noticed but a size universal enough to feel comfortable on all wrists. Considering the reasonable price tag of US$ 9,700, it is safe to bet that with these well-crafted models the legend of Gerald Genta’s Ingenieur design will continue to live on.