Watches: Glashütte Original PanoMaticInverse (+live pics)

By Thierry Ané on June 3, 2014

Baselworld 2014 was definitely a good vintage for Glashütte Original as the brand introduced some impressive examples of German Haute Horology. On Watch Agora, I have already presented the splendid Senator Chronograph Panorama DateWatches: Glashütte Original Senator Chronograph Panorama Date (+live pics) equipped with the brand new 37-01 calibre. Offered in red gold or platinum, this self-winding flyback chronograph with large date and sectorial power reserve brilliantly demonstrates how committed to fine watchmaking this Saxon-based manufacture is. Perfectly crafted with sober and timeless design, it clearly epitomises the horological values shared by all high-end German brands.

Glashütte Original, however, is equally at ease with more decorative models that dare to venture outside the usually-restrained German aesthetic to embrace more baroque designs. With its strong and assertive design, the PanoMaticInverse collection presented this year perfectly illustrates how original and refined this brand’s timepieces can be.

The “inverted-design” concept at the core of this collection dates back to 2008 when the brand unveiled the PanoInverse XL watches. The idea was to give stage to a gorgeous duplex swan-neck fine adjustment and hand-engraved balance bridge by placing them on the front of the movement instead of hiding them on the back as is usually the norm. Not surprisingly, the concept required a complete reworking of the base movement and gave birth to the entirely new manually-wound GO 66 calibre that can still be found in the steel or red gold PanoInverse XL models today.

This year, the brand decided to add the convenience of an automatic movement as well as the usefulness of a date indication to this iconic design and launched the PanoMaticInverse collection powered by the new GO 91-01 calibre. In addition to being self-winding, this new “inverted” movement features a large date indication in place of the sectorial power reserve of the GO 66 movement.

Like its predecessor, the PanoMaticInverse is presented in a classic 42 mm round case crafted in stainless steel or red gold and paired with a black or brown alligator strap. Each model is secured by a folding buckle made from the same material as the case. This time, a steel version with a metal bracelet is also available for those looking for a sportier interpretation of the watch.

Aesthetically, all versions are stunning with their rhodium-plated three-quarter plate made of German silver and decorated with “Glashütte ribbing”, the local equivalent of the “Côtes de Genève”. Among the constellation of blued steel screws and rubies, a sub-dial with heat-blued steel or red gold hour markers (depending on the model) indicates the time of the day above a smaller-sized overlapping seconds counter. Between 1 and 2 o’clock, a single window offers the large date. In a nice aesthetic contrast, the part of the plate dedicated to the swan-neck fine adjustment is decorated with perlage and the balance bridge received gold-coated engravings.

Although the brand decided to display some of the most beautiful elements of the movement on the dial side, the decoration of the back has not been overlooked. Indeed, the see-through sapphire crystal lets you admire the elegant “Glashütte ribbing”, blued screws and rubies that ornate the baseplate as well as the skeletonized oscillating weight fitted with a 21-carat gold back-to-back double “G” insignia.

The PanoMaticInverse represents the natural evolution of the PanoInverse XL and the presence of an automatic movement should attract many watch aficionados that were still hesitating about the previous model. Whether you opt for the stainless steel or red gold version, you are sure to acquire a fine piece of watchmaking with a totally unique design.