Watches: Peter Speake-Marin Triad (+live pics)
By Thierry Ané on June 4, 2014
Last year Peter Speake-Marin launched the “Mechanical Art” collection with the Triad in stainless steel and red gold bezel. The line’s ambition is to bring watchmaking and art together with timepieces that offer a different presentation of time or bear a meaning far beyond their original raison d’être.
With a triple hours and minutes indication over an open dial, the Triad played on the universal significance of the number “3” right down to its name. In musical terms, “Triad” refers to a three-cord note, meaning three notes played simultaneously to provide a single, rich sound.
Given how many watch collectors are always in dire search for conversation pieces that combine unique aesthetic and powerful symbolism, the 88 pieces of this limited edition must have sold out very quickly and to give more watch aficionados the opportunity to own such an intriguing model, Peter Speake-Marin has decided to introduce two more versions of this piece of “Mechanical Art”.
A stainless steel and a red gold iteration of the Triad are now expanding this poetic collection. Although all three versions share common characteristics, the new additions definitely bring something on an aesthetic level.
The red gold model is graphically the closest to last year’s steel and red gold Triad. They share the same black flange with Roman numerals at the cardinal points, black- or gold-coloured wheels that contrast nicely with the circular-grained rhodium movement plate, and of course the three pairs of flame-blued “Foundation” style hands. The only difference is that the 42 mm Piccadilly case that was previously in highly polished stainless steel with a contrasting red gold bezel is now entirely made of red gold.
The stainless steel model plays on a more monochrome note. The movement plate visible on the open dial and the flange are now both rhodium-coloured. So are the two sets of wheels driving the triple hours and minutes indication. With a case entirely crafted in polished stainless steel, the flame-blued “Foundation” hands and the central topping tool bring the unique colour touch with the black inscriptions, including the “3 Notes, 1 Meaning” engraving on the lower right corner of the dial to remind the wearer of the musical significance of the Triad.
The two new versions are mounted on the same black alligator strap with ecru stitches as the original model and are secured by a pin buckle in either steel or red gold. They are all equipped with the self-winding Eros 2 calibre that can be observed through the sapphire back. There again, a blued oscillating weight shaped like a topping tool brings a welcome contrast with the monochromatic silver finishing of the movement.
The Triad is not just a watch: it is symbolic object whose significance is open to interpretation by its wearer. It transcends its original time-telling function to become a piece of art. As such, it is highly collectible whatever the version. If I am entirely honest, though, not all three versions are equally appealing to me. I loved the tremendous contrasts of the Triad in stainless steel and red gold bezel. The combination of these two materials with the black flange and wheels and the blue hands is truly attention-grabbing. At the other range of the spectrum, I love the monochromatic look of the stainless steel version: it adds a mysterious note to the watch.
The model featuring a red gold case is the one I like less as I find it hesitating between the colourful and monochrome paths. But this is just me and this is also what is so interesting with this collection: you have to select the version that best illustrates your tastes and give a meaning to this ode to the number “3”.