Photo Report: Romain Gauthier Logical One Secret Diamonds (live pics)
By Thierry Ané on June 5, 2014
In 2013, Romain Gauthier won the Best Men’s Complications Watch award at the prestigious Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève with the brand’s most complicated model to date, the Logical One. Considering the competition from large brands with extensive “Research & Development” departments and almost unlimited financial means, it is quite an accomplishment for a small independent brand launched as recently as 2006!
It is, however, a well-deserved acknowledgement of the hard work and dedication Romain Gauthier put into his eponymous brand since the very beginning. Nowadays, most watchmakers trying to make a name for themselves in the high-end watch segment go for obvious Haute Horology complications like a tourbillon. The reason is simple: there is no need of a watchmaking diploma to appreciate the complexity of a spinning escapement.
Lift the diamond-covered lid, and the beautiful balance wheel and fusée-and-chain mechanism become apparent
Romain Gauthier did not settle for such an obvious choice. Instead, this talented watchmaker decided to tackle one of the holy grails of horology: the constant force. It is in fact quite unsettling to think that the power that runs and regulates the vast majority of high-end timepieces actually varies hugely according to the state of winding of the mainspring! Compensating for the loss of torque when the mainspring nears the end of its power reserve represents a true technical achievement but it only speaks to watchmakers and highly-educated watch aficionados.
Romain Gauthier’s approach to reaching a constant force relies on a century-old device called the “fusée and chain”. In the Logical One, however, a rotating snail cam replaces the usual fusée and the force is always transmitted in a straight line by a lubricant-free chain made of synthetic rubies.
The miniature ruby chain is clearly visible at the top of this picture
Housed in a refined 43.00 x 14.20 mm case, this technically-advanced timepiece indicates the hours and minutes and the small seconds on two small overlapping black guilloché dials positioned at 1 o’clock. They leave a large open space on the dial to display the technical elements, namely the constant-force system on the right-hand side and the escapement below the dials.
At Baselworld this year, Romain Gauthier officially unveiled the first variation on the Logical One concept: the “Logical One Secret”. Just before the fair, I briefly presented the Logical One Secret Diamonds and the Logical One Secret Rubies in an articleFlash News: Romain Gauthier Logical One Red Secret based on official pictures and I have now the opportunity to show you what the watch actually looks like.
Technically, the Logical One Secret is perfectly identical to the model that won the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie last year. The novelty is the presence of a lid on the front of the red gold case. When closed, the red gold cover hides the technical beauty of the chain-and-fusée system and only leaves visible the black guilloché sub-dials for the time indications.
The Logical One Secret Diamonds still grabs our attention, thanks to the 181 baguette-cut diamonds used to set the cover and lugs of the case. A total of almost 7 carats of white diamonds illuminates the watch and transforms this High Horology model into a piece of High Jewellery.
The case back is equally beautiful, though in a more monochrome palette just punctuated by a few rubies
On the official pictures, Romain Gauthier also presented a Logical One Secret Rubies. The colour of these gemstones seems to complement beautifully the red gold case. For obvious financial reasons, the brand only produced one Logical One Secret Diamonds so far and we unfortunately do not have live pictures of the “ruby” rendition. Nevertheless, given how jaw-dropping the Logical One Secret Diamonds is, I have no doubt the Logical One Secret Rubies would be absolutely stunning.
If you want to see it, though, you will have to order it! Tough? Perhaps, but this is also the exciting aspect of the new “Logical One Secret”: customisation. If you prefer emeralds or sapphires, I am sure Romain Gauthier will be pleased to accommodate your tastes. He has already thought of versions featuring lids covered with stones like onyx, aventurine, spectrolite… unless you prefer enamel? Everything is possible and I am convinced we have not seen the last renditions of this stunning “Logical One Secret” yet!