Watches: Roger Dubuis Excalibur 42 Chronograph Boutique Editions (Steel or Pink Gold)

By Thierry Ané on November 10, 2013

Applying the same successful recipes as the ones he used at IWC, George Kern and his team have worked hard over the past few years to refocus the image and message of Roger Dubuis around four watch collections: Excalibur, La Monégasque, Pulsion and Velvet. The Excalibur collection, however, remains central to Roger Dubuis: it is the collection that made the brand famous and it continues to drive popularity and attention towards the company.

The latest additions to this successful collection are the Excalibur 42 Chronograph Boutique Edition Steel and Pink Gold. Both watches feature a new in-house automatic movement, namely the calibre RD681. It is powered by a Tungsten micro-rotor, heavy enough to create the necessary inertia for keeping the main spring wound (the power reserve is roughly 52 hours). The movement is COSC certified and stamped with the prestigious Hallmark of Geneva. The level of finish is thus perfect as can be expected from the only Manufacture that produces all their watches compliant with and bearing the Hallmark of Geneva.

Aesthetically, both timepieces bear the codes of the Excalibur line: the triple horns attaching the bracelet, the immediately identifiable fluted bezel and the slender Roman numerals. Like other Excalibur 42 timepieces, these two watches exhibit a stunning sunray dial. The dial is blue with silver-coloured numerals on the steel version while it is brown with black-coloured numerals on the pink gold version. Both timepieces come with an alligator strap: blue for the steel model and brown for the pink gold one.

These two timepieces are sold exclusively in the Roger Dubuis boutiques and this is certainly my only criticism about these beautiful watches. I understand that the margins must be bigger when you sell through a mono brand boutique (particularly if you own it!) than through a multi-brand retailer but this type of policy can work for brands such as Omega, Tag Heuer and the likes with a significant number of boutiques around the world. Roger Dubuis has only 18 boutiques in 8 countries (14 of the boutiques being in Asia, only 1 in Europe and none whatsoever in North or South America!). Suppose you are in London or New York or Mexico City and you want to buy one of these two stunning timepieces. What do you do? They are not available in your country! What does it say about how Roger Dubuis sees the potential customers in these markets?

For a technical description of the timepieces and additional pictures: