Flash News: H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Black DLC Titanium and Gold Fumé Sunburst Dial
By Thierry Ané on July 14, 2014
For most watch connoisseurs, H. Moser & Cie is highly regarded for its uncompromising movements and flawless classicism. This brand does not rely on publicity coups and high-profile ambassadors to build its reputation: they rather count on the outstanding quality of their in-house movements and the universal appeal of their classic designs to win over the most demanding watch collectors. Precious metals, sober dial colours, and exquisite calibres are the characteristics that come to mind when describing this brand’s collections. If we were to present a single model that bears all the elements of the brand’s DNA, we could select the Perpetual 1 in rose gold with solid gold fumé sunburst dial.
First of all, this elegant timepiece is equipped with the manually-wound HMC 341 calibre, perhaps the simplest perpetual calendar on the market. Set with solid gold plates and bridges, this movement entirely developed in-house features a Moser escapement with the Straumann Double Hairspring and offers a minimum 7-day power reserve. With a large date window, the month indication by a discrete central hand, and the leap year indication on the back, it is one of the most legible perpetual calendar models you could find and its calendar functions are adjustable forwards and backward at any time, making it also one of the most user-friendly.
Aesthetically, this Perpetual 1 is typical of H. Moser & Cie’s refined style. It features an understated 40.80 mm rose gold case with a thickness of just 11.05 mm, perfectly polished with gentle curves and a nice fluted crown. The dial is in solid gold with a magnificent fumé sunburst finish characteristic of the brand’s production. Together with the brown alligator strap, it helps create the unique and extremely refined look so appreciated by discerning collectors around the world.
H. Moser & Cie, however, is not the kind of brand that rests on its laurels and only introduces models in line with what watch lovers expect. At Baselworld 2014, the brand introduced a brand new model in a material never used before by the brand: titanium! And, to make this a true “revolution”, they presented the watch with a black DLC finish. Not surprisingly, this Perpetual 1 Black EditionFlash News: H. Moser & Cie Moser Perpetual 1 Black Edition houses the brand’s iconic HMC 341 calibre to fix it in the brand’s DNA despite its unexpected case material. I refer you to my pre-Basel presentationFlash News: H. Moser & Cie Moser Perpetual 1 Black Edition to see some pictures of this timepiece and my thoughts about this departure from absolute classicism.
With a black dial and rose gold hour markers and hands as well as a matte black alligator strap, this Endeavour Black EditionFlash News: H. Moser & Cie Moser Perpetual 1 Black Edition represents H. Moser & Cie’s version of the popular “all-black” timepiece and a way of reaching a younger clientele than usual. This month, H. Moser & Cie confirms its desire to cater to more modern customers with the Black Golden Edition.
This new Endeavour Perpetual Calendar limited to 10 pieces is similar to the Perpetual 1 Black Edition unveiled earlier this year in many aspects: it features the same black DLC titanium case mounted on a black alligator strap. The watch is also animated by the HMC 341 calibre but although it received a black treatment on the Perpetual 1 Black Edition to extend the “black theme”, it features solid gold plates and bridges this time. Lastly, in tribute to one of the brand’s specialties, the Black Golden Edition boasts a solid 18-karat gold fumé dial with a beautiful sunburst pattern. The colours of this gold fumé dial flow from a warm gold to shaded fumé tones that blend into the dark polished titanium case.
The Black Golden Edition is a true success that combines the best of both worlds: it is faithful to H. Moser & Cie’s classicism thanks to its superlative perpetual calendar movement with Haute Horlogerie finishes and the beauty of a gold fumé dial but it is also extremely contemporary due to the use of lightweight titanium with a black DLC treatment. Available immediately, these 10 timepieces should sell very quickly… For more information please visit the H. Moser & Cie web site.