Watches: Omega De Ville Trésor Master Co-Axial Collection

By Thierry Ané on September 2, 2014

Not so long ago I started an article about Longines’ Twenty-Four Hours Single Push-Piece ChronographWatches: Longines Twenty-Four Hours Single Push-Piece Chronograph with my general dislike for vintage-inspired watches. Not that their design can’t be appealing but simply because being a mere reinterpretation of a past look, it lacks originality and also because most of the time the proportions of these retro timepieces are at odds with today’s tastes.

The original DeVille Tresor from the 1940s

The vintage frenzy remains a sure trend, however, and it was only a matter of time before I had to comment on another reminiscence of the past. Funnily, and absolutely without intention on my part, the new retro-looking timepiece belongs to a brand of the same group. It is indeed Omega’s turn to unveil an upgraded version of a late 1940s classic: the De Ville Trésor.

Worshipers of all things from the past can rejoice: the brand spared no effort to preserve the vintage appeal of the original model, including its moderate 40 mm case size and its slim profile with a 10.6 mm thickness. Three versions are available: in Yellow Gold, in White Gold, or in the brand’s proprietary Sedna Gold. All interpretations feature a perfectly polished case with slightly curved gold lugs holding a black or brown leather strap secured by a pin buckle in the same material as the case.

The watch’s character comes from the extremely refined silvery opaline dial adorned with a Clous de Paris decoration. Elegant domed 18-karat gold indexes punctuate the discreet black minute track. Like the central hour hand and domed minutes and seconds hands, the hours markers are crafted in the same gold as the case. The White Gold looks a bit cold for me and I have never been a fan of the show-off and slightly vulgar side of Yellow Gold but the face of the Sedna Gold model truly looks good.

To be honest though, the part that really looks stunning to me is the back of these timepieces revealing the Co-Axial 8511 calibre. According to the brand, it is one of the most advanced mechanical movements they have ever made. One thing is certain: this time and date manually-wound movement does incorporate a lot of Omega’s technological breakthroughs including a Si14 silicon balance spring, a three-level Co-Axial escapement and the brand’s exclusive anti-magnetic technology. This chronometer certified movement is also beautifully finished and a pleasure to look at with the Côtes de Genève rayonnantes on the bridges featuring bevelled and polished edges and a lot of jewels and blued screws. I also like the contrast between the rhodium colour of the upper two bridges and the gold of the escapement bridge.

All things considered, even though these vintage-inspired models are not my first choice, this De Ville Tresor Master Co-Axial looks good (particularly so in Sedna Gold) and I understand why they will be successful with many watch aficionados who do not get my love for large contemporary timepieces with complex layouts and revolutionary materials.

For more information please visit the Omega web site.