Flash News: Armin Strom Skeleton Pure Collection
By Thierry Ané on November 5, 2014
For all the watch lovers with contemporary tastes, Armin Strom continues to present a modern take on traditional watchmaking with timepieces that successfully blend the essence of the horological craft with a distinctive aesthetic inspired by the four elements, Air, Water, Earth and Fire.
This month, the talented Swiss manufacture unveils the first two pieces of a brand new series, the “Skeleton Pure”, that goes back to the ancient art of skeletonisation, the brand’s founder specialty, with an entirely new approach to create something different, extremely appealing and deeply rooted in the 21st century.
Earlier this year, for Baselworld 2014, the brand already introduced a delicately hollowed-out model, the One Week Skeleton, as a direct tribute to the work of Mr Armin Strom. I encourage all readers to browse through my discussion of this timepieceWatches: Armin Strom Armin One Week Skeleton (+live pics) if only for the beautiful live pictures we took during the fair: they reveal the excellent work of skeletonisation that the ARM09-S movement underwent before being adorned by hand-made engravings.
The “Skeleton Pure” collection relies on the same manually-wound ARM09-S calibre as this 50-piece limited edition. It is characterised by the presence of slightly off-centred hours and minutes together with a small seconds sub-dial at the 9 o'clock position that also incorporates a power reserve indicator. Beating at the frequency of 18,000 vibrations per hour, this 36.60 mm double-barrel movement with escape wheel and pallets made of solid gold offers a generous 8-day power reserve and perfectly showcases the level of Fine Watchmaking reached by this manufacture.
The similarities between the One Week Skeleton and the “Skeleton Pure” tradition, however, end here. After a stunning homage to the brand’s founder in the purest tradition, Armin Strom comes back to their current pursuit: an extremely modern and creative vision of Haute Horlogerie.
The approach to eliminate anything extraneous from the base calibre is so different that it is quite hard to see the relatedness between these two timepieces. Light has now been brought to the inside of the movement through geometric, almost industrial cuts with an emphasis on revealing the different layers of the movement construction. To better achieve this goal, the main plate received a 3D-PVD coating that enhances the overall depth of the movement and creates enough contrast to highlight the gears and wheels.
For now, the brand has just revealed the Skeleton Pure Water and Skeleton Pure Fire making their debut at the SIAR 2014 that took place on October 21-23 in Mexico City. The interpretations of the remaining two elements, the Skeleton Pure Air in titanium and the Skeleton Pure Earth in black PVD-coated steel will be officially introduced on November 6-8 during Salon QP 2014 in London.
As usual, the Skeleton Pure Water features a stainless steel case (43.40 mm with a thickness of 13.00 mm) paired with a blue hornback alligator strap with white stiches whereas the Skeleton Pure Fire is crafted in rose gold and mounted on a brown hornback alligator with white stitches. Both are secured with a pin buckle of the same material as the case and folding buckles are available on option.
The main plate, gear-train bridges and barrel bridges are treated with an intense blue PVD coating on the Skeleton Pure Water and a dark brown PVD coating has been used on the Skeleton Pure Fire. Both versions work beautifully with the sapphire minute ring bearing the only indications of the dial save for the brand’s name. I do have a preference, though, for the Skeleton Pure Water this time as contrasts are somehow stronger and the colours more clearly refer to this engineering, industrial component of the watch.
In any case, it is a beautiful achievement and I really can’t wait to discover the other two versions and will probably come back to this “Skeleton Pure” collection after Salon QP 2014 with live pictures.
For more information please visit the Armin Strom web site.