Watches: Girard-Perregaux Vintage 1945 Large Date Moon Phases Mechanics of Art Deco
By Thierry Ané on November 25, 2014
As a rule, I am not a huge fan of rectangular- or square-shaped timepieces and the vintage trend is mainly lost on me! However, there is something absolutely unique and exquisitely refined in the Art Deco lines of the “Vintage 1945” collection from Girard-Perregaux that truly makes these watches irresistibly appealing to me…
Designed in the purest Art Deco style, this elegant frame is not just any rectangular case: gently curved both length-wise and width-wise it offers harmonious lines and an astonishing degree of comfort on the wrist. The presence of horizontal gadroons at the base of the short lugs, the perfect integration of the crown into the case band, and the contrast between a slightly raised rectangular bezel and gently cambered case bands all make a strong aesthetic statement and harmoniously convey the Italian sense of style instilled into the brand by its management.
For this new model, the case retains contemporary yet understated 36.20 x 35.25 mm dimensions for a thickness of just 10.83 mm and is offered in steel or pink gold, always mounted on black alligator leather with a folding buckle in the same material as the case. Its water resistance to a depth of 30 meters ensure that the delicate mechanism inside remains protected against dust and water.
For this "Large Date and Moon Phases" model it houses the self-winding GP03300-0062 calibre that hugs the shape of the case, a characteristic rare enough to be mentioned when so many rectangular models on the market use round movements! Manufactured entirely in the brand’s workshops, this refined calibre with impeccable finish is visible through the sapphire case back as on all models of this impressive collection.
For the first time, though, the wearer will have the pleasure of gazing at its mechanical beauty from a new perspective: the dial! Indeed, the Vintage 1945 Large Date Moon Phases Mechanics of Art Deco presents a beautiful sapphire dial revealing the discs, screws, levers and wheels that perfectly orchestrate this horological system. To maintain the elegance of this “Vintage 1945” line and also create a mysterious effect, it has been smoked, making all the dial indications perfectly legible. The characteristic large date at 12 o’clock, the moon phases embedded in the small seconds sub-dial at the 6 o’clock location and the hours and minutes indicated by facetted Dauphine-shaped hands stand out perfectly on this sapphire with grey colouring obtained by surface metallization. The mixture of trapezoidal hour markers and Arabic numerals in an Art Deco font deeply root this new model into aesthetics of the “Vintage 1945” line.
As always with Girard-Perregaux, the stainless steel model is executed with the same care and attention to details as the more luxurious pink gold version. Both models are equally beautiful and would make for a perfect dress watch with a twist for any collection.
For more information please visit the Girard-Perregaux web site.