Watches: Greubel Forsey GMT Platinum & GMT Black ADLC Titanium (+live pics)
By Thierry Ané on February 10, 2015
Nowadays, if you read a press release from any medium-range to high-end brand, you will learn that the movement has been finished with the utmost attention to details and features some of the most exquisite hand-made and time-consuming decorations you will be able to find in the watch industry. Every hardcore watch lover will tell you that if there is a single brand for which the statement is not excessive but merely reflects the astonishing quality of every movement part, it is Greubel Forsey!
Of course, for less seasoned watch enthusiasts, this small but very creative Manufacture is best known for introducing some of the most visually impressive tourbillons on the market. Their open-worked multi-layered dials combined with the presence of multi-axis tourbillons bring an unparalleled depth to the face of the watch and could almost make you forget the stratospheric price of these “inventions”.
But the genius of these two watchmakers goes well beyond the research for the best inclination of the escapement to achieve higher chronometric standards: they are able to re-think some of the most traditional and useful complications found on a timekeeper and offer their more intuitive and easy-to-use take while maintaining the outstanding finishing level that made their reputation among the world’s biggest collectors.
One such timepiece is undoubtedly the “GMT” model released in white gold in 2012. The name is extremely modest to describe this breathtaking example of Fine Watchmaking at its best! Sure this remarkable watch displays a second time zone on the small dial at 10 o’clock that slightly overlaps with the larger dial indicating the local time. But it is for its amazingly intuitive world timer that the model truly impresses.
The 24 time zones are visualised in the most natural way: a rotating three-dimensional titanium globe with the oceans and continents beautifully represented allows you to instantly know the time everywhere in the world. The 24-hour scale surrounding the globe changes between two colours as the globe spins to indicate the day and night. A see-through sapphire placed on the case band allows you to see the side of the globe and a more classic “world time” indication appears on the back of the movement with a 24-city disc revolving inside a ring marked with the 24 time zones.
The piece being a Greubel Forsey, it also features a superb 24-second tourbillon escapement inclined at 25° and positioned at 5 o’clock. All in all, the timepiece has a lot to keep your interest up on the dial and once you have passed this incredible show (if that is ever possible!), you realise that beyond these incredible technical achievement, the watch also stands out for the exceptional quality of its finishing on each and every part.
For this reason, new versions of the watch cannot be regarded as just additional dial renditions: they truly are an aesthetic experiment and a display of different decorative skills. This was true for the red gold model introduced in 2013 and the platinum iteration of last year, and it remains relevant to describe the two new models joining the collection this year.
If fact, it appears truer than ever if you consider the new GMT Platinum and GMT Black ADLC Titanium together: they answer to two very distinctive aesthetic approaches found in watchmaking today. On the one side, the platinum model plays on the traditional decorations with the stunning nickel silver frosted main plates. Their splendid pink gold PVD treatment works beautifully with the black chrome treatment of the gold sub-dials.
At the other end of the spectrum, the GMT Black ADLC Titanium plays the extremely contemporary “all-black” card with black chrome treatment on the main plates and dials to complement the black ADLC titanium case. In both cases, the titanium globe is equally striking and the finish of the hand-bevelled titanium cage bridges of the tourbillon and its gold counterweight are absolutely stunning.
Whether you are more of a GMT Platinum type of person or an avant-garde watch collector with a weakness for the GMT Black ADLC Titanium, I don’t see how you would not agree that both timepieces are absolutely splendid and once again showcase the exceptional craftsmanship, both technical and aesthetic, that goes into the creation of one of Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey’s pieces of watchmaking art.
For more information please visit the Greubel Forsey web site.