Watches: Cartier Calibre Diver Collection
By Thierry Ané on December 13, 2013
This year, Cartier has decided to establish itself in the sports segment of the watch market. Cleverly combining refinement and relaxation, many models from the great “maison” can be considered multipurpose watches. It is, however, the very first time Cartier dives so deeply in the sporting category to introduce the brand’s first diver’s watch, the Calibre de Cartier Diver.
Although I may not have necessarily expected this move from Cartier, if you had made me guess in which collection this type of watch could appear, I would have said the “Calibre” line without hesitation. Its masculine design works perfectly well as a diver’s watch. The brand maintained the 42 mm case and managed to keep the thickness to 11 mm while complying with the technical requirements of ISO 6425.
This rigorous standard for diver watches tests the reliability under water, the resistance to condensation, the resistance of the crown to external forces, water-tightness and resistance at a water overpressure as well as resistance to thermal shocks. It is worth reminding that these tests are performed on every single watch produced and not just a selected sample.
Crafted in pink gold or steel with a contrast of satin and polished finish, this model is designed to withstand water pressure up to 300 meters. As required by the ISO 6425 specification, the watch features a unidirectional rotating bezel. Made of fluted steel or pink gold, it has been designed with 120 notches to enable precise adjustments to half a minute. The central ring received a black ADLC treatment and features Arabic numerals with additional markers on the first 15-minute area.
The black lacquered dial with its oversized Roman numerals and the sword-shaped hands is the epitome of Cartier’s understated style. What is more unusual, though, is the generous presence of white SuperLuminova on the oversized “12” and the other hour markers, on the three hands and around the seconds counter. When in the dark, the watch literally glows as you can see on the image above. It is perfectly legible as fine diver’s watches should be.
Both models are fitted with a textured black rubber and are secured by a pin buckle in steel or pink gold, as should be the case on a diver’s model. Inside these watches, beats the first in-house movement developed by the brand. The self-wing 1904 MC calibre provides 48 hours of power reserve thanks to two barrels that unwind in series.
I have many diver’s watches that will never see a drop of water because they look too fragile or precious. I also have several “professional” diving timepieces with extreme water-resistance or a depth gauge that took on water after five minutes in a 1.5-meter deep pool! I can tell you that I now select very carefully the timepieces I bring with me on holiday. It thus really means a lot when I say that I would really see myself in a pool with the Calibre Diver in pink gold on my wrist!